I've noticed, on Pinterest, that much of what people tend to pin are examples of what they wish their life looked like. A beautiful photograph is occasionally accompanied by several of the key colors extracted from the palette of the photo and arranged like a paint chip. _This is, of course, quite useful in making one's life more like a beautiful photograph. You could decorate a room with a color scheme that makes you feel just as looking at the photo does. You can also do this with photographs of outfits you like. Maybe it's not the specific clothing items you prefer, but the color scheme involved in the ensemble. Time to extract those colors and see what it looks like.
There are some programs out there on the web that will do this automatically for you. The problem with them is that they choose either all the colors (way more subtle hues than you know what to do with), or they choose the 12 most common colors or so. The latter seems like an OK idea, but in the case of the tropical shot below, the 12 most common colors in the photo are all shades of turquoise. The sand isn't prominent enough to get top billing.
Plus, those programs show you the colors, but don't make for a lovely pin-able color scheme.
So, a solution. Two free downloadable Photoshop templates. Choose either horizontal or vertical orientation (or both, if you want to have both handy for future use—all of the above examples are horizontal. The vertical template has the paint chips on the right).
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Copy and paste your photo onto the appropriate template. Drag the photo layer below the layer labeled "Put photo below this." Re-size and position the photo as needed. | | _Click on the "Use All Layers to fill" layer. You'll create the rest of the image from this layer; no need to mess with your layers after this point. Click the paint bucket tool. |
_Make sure the check-boxes for "Use All Layers," "Contiguous," and "Anti-aliased" are all checked. |
| | Use the eye dropper tool to select a desired color from your photo, then switch to the paint bucket tool to fill one of the paint chips. Repeat until satisfied. Choosing a mix of dark and light colors, and a range of hues, will yield the most pleasing results with your color palette.
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When you're finished, choose "flatten image" from the layers menu, and Save As a .jpg for the web. If you accidentally save over the original template, just pop back over here and download yourself another. Feel free to use the downloadable template for any personal or commercial purposes, but do not redistribute the template itself; tell others where you got it instead.
 So, you've probably already packed up your lights for the year, but keep this trick in the back of your mind for next year.
I don't know what made me try this in the first place 15 years ago, but now I would never store strings of lights any other way.
In 15 years, I have never had a string of lights tangle, and I can find the specific string I'm looking for the first time, every time. This system cost me $2.99. Once. 15 years ago.
Ready for the secret? Lunch-sized paper sacks. Buy one package of them and keep them with your holiday decorations. You'll still have some left over in a few decades.
Put each strand of lights in its own paper sack. Feed the lights in like you're stuffing a sleeping bag into a stuff-sack, don't roll them up or fold them or bunch them first. This is part of the secret. Start with the non-plug end at the bottom of the sack, so the plug always comes out first.
Need to test a light strand? No need to remove it from the sack, just pull out the plug end a few inches and plug it in. Don't worry about a fire hazard, the lit lights won't be in the sack long enough to matter. In 15 years, I've never had a sack even start to get brownish from lit lights.
 Another brilliant aspect of this system is easy labeling. I always include on my sacks:
1. Number of lights in the strand
2. Color of bulbs
3. Color of cord (green looks good on the tree, white looks good against white walls)
4. "Plugs one end" or "Plugs both ends" for decoration planning purposes
5. Any other distinguishing characteristics (like "LED" or "icicle style" or "faded color" or even how you typically use them, like "goes above the fireplace")
You can fit a remarkable number of these paper sacks full of lights into a large plastic tub, with other holiday decorations or by themselves. The sacks are also conveniently squishy, so you can really pack them in to any available space.
Next year when you pull them out, you'll know exactly what you've got without even opening any sacks. Throw away (or recycle) all those stupid plastic clips and cardboard boxes the lights came in but never fit back into. One flimsy paper sack will last for many years (I use the same ones over and over again. I've replaced a few over the years, but not many; the sacks tend to last longer than the lights themselves).
One more bonus: decorating the tree is easier. Pull out the plug end and plug it in. Keep the sack full of lights in your hand as you walk around the tree, feeding out only as much of the strand as you need for that part of the tree. The tail end of the strand won't get caught on lower branches, or, you know, the cat. Work in reverse to take the lights down.
How to erase scratches in wood floors and furniture with a walnut:
Let me start by saying that the example floor you are about to see is not in the best condition. I decided a year or two ago to remove the hideous blue stained wall-to-wall carpet from the house, and I love the results. Under the blue crusty monstrosity, there were lovely honey-colored wood floors. The wood was infinitely better than the carpet. But—the floor itself was fairly scratched and stained. This walnut trick works better with new scratches; not so much with scratches that have existed underneath wall-to-wall carpeting for 30 or 40 years.
| | So, keeping all that in mind, please ignore the dark scratches you see—those are going to take some serious work, beyond the capacity of a walnut.
Look for the white scratch, shaped like a ^ little tent that ends near the word "see—" in the previous paragraph. That's the scratch we're going to tackle.
Prepare to be astonished.
It's so easy, it's kind of ridiculous.
Take a walnut, without the shell (available in the baking aisle of your local grocery store), and rub it with vigor on the scratch.
Working from right to left in these photos, the scratch is (mostly) obliterated.
You'll be getting a little bit of nut oil on your floor as you do this. Don't worry, you can just wipe it up with a soft cloth.
Apparently, almonds, pecans, and brazil nuts also work. Any oily nut probably will do.
Now if I can only find a way to eradicate those dark scratches as easily...
In case you forgot what the original scratch looked like, here are the first and last pictures, side by side.
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I found this tutorial the other day by Darcy of Life With My 3 Boybarians, and it was so incredibly useful, I thought I should share it. I have an old version of Photoshop Elements, and it has long been sufficient for my skill level, but I have learned so much in the last month or so that I fear I might outgrow it soon and need the (eep!) expensive full version... Even the old, stripped down model allows for accomplishing this magnificence:This photograph of my dear friend Katy in the snow has long been one of my favorites, because it showcases her eyes so well. Now with this Photoshop technique, I can really call attention to them. My favorite thing about this edit is that it doesn't look fake (like my earlier attempts to accomplish this), it just looks cleaner, brighter, and clearer. It doesn't look like I changed the color, it just looks like I know how to focus my camera better. Portrait confidence, here I come! See the How to Make Eyes Pop Photoshop Tutorial on Life With My 3 Boybarians.
 Culture, 6th Grade:
Wondering how to do this project at home? Here is a tutorial for the stencil method of silk screening. You will need to buy some items once, and some items over and over again. You can get started for about $35.
Ask your 6th grader; your student should be able to clarify some of the details since they now have first-hand experience with this method.
Items you'll need to buy once:- A blank screen, 8.5 x 11 inches - $18-$25 from Art Media or I've Been Framed- A silk screen squeegee, small, plastic (important: get the kind in the photo with the spoon! Other styles work well for other silk screen methods, but the stencil method requires more pressure than you can easily get from another kind of squeegee) - $2-$4 from Art Media or I've Been Framed- An X-Acto knife - $3-$7 from almost any art or craft store, maybe even Fred Meyer- A spoon - one from your drawer, or $0.50 from Goodwill- A piece of corrugated cardboard - free, just check your recycling- A piece of cereal-box type cardboard - free, just check your recycling- An old phone book or old newspapers - free, just check your front porch Items you'll need to replace as you use them up:- silk screen ink for fabric - Speedball brand is best, 8oz for $6-10 from Art Media or I've Been Framed (five 8oz containers were enough to do 150 designs for this project, with some left over). - 8.5 x 11 inch card stock (110lb. - 140lb. paper, smooth texture) - package size varies, available from any office supply store or Fred Meyer- spare X-Acto knife blades - package of 15, about $6 from any art or craft store Step One: Print out or draw your design onto a piece of card stock. Decide which parts represent where you want the ink. Those are the parts you are going to cut out with the X-Acto knife. Inspect your design for areas that might fall out of the page completely if you cut out surrounding parts. Either be prepared to meticulously keep track of those parts, or leave a little card stock bridge to hold the pieces in place. Step Two: Cut out your design. Put several sheets of newspaper or phone book under your card stock design while you cut it out with the X-Acto knife to protect your work surface.Step Three: Prepare your work station. On a table or the floor, put down a piece of corrugated cardboard first. This ensures that your surface is even and it has a little bit of give to it, so that when you push on the wooden frame, the silk is completely flat against the fabric. Lay your t-shirt down on top of the corrugated cardboard. Put a piece of cereal box cardboard inside the shirt (this keeps the texture of the corrugated stuff from showing through on your design), and two or three layers of newspaper or phone book pages between the cereal box cardboard and the front of the shirt (this keeps the ink from soaking through too far). If you are printing more than one shirt with the same stencil, set up additional shirts exactly the same way very close to the first shirt. Step Four: Set up your design. Place your card stock stencil on your shirt exactly where you want it to show up. Carefully set the blank screen on top of the stencil so that none of the shirt peeks through between the edge of the card stock and the wooden frame (if necessary, cover any shirt peek-throughs with a strip of newspaper or phone book). The silk part of the screen should be flat against the design. Step Five: Add the ink. Find a friend to hold the frame in place for you. If nobody is available, do this on the floor, and use your knees to hold the frame down. You don't want your frame to move while you work with the ink! Using a spoon, plop a dollop of ink onto your design somewhere. It really doesn't matter where.Step Six: Spread the ink. Using the squeegee, gently spread the ink around until it covers all of your stencil holes. You don't need to cover all of the silk, just all of the cut-out parts of your stencil. Scoop up any extra ink with the squeegee and scrape it back into the container.Step Seven: Power slides. Holding the squeegee perpendicular to the silk, press down hard as you scrape across your design. You are pushing the ink through the tiny little silk holes, past the card stock stencil, and into the fibers of the shirt, so you have to push hard. If you are pushing hard enough, your design should be very easy to see through the ink. Step Eight: Lift the screen. If you have a friend helping you, have them hold down one side of your shirt. Grab the wooden part of the screen that is closest to where your friend is holding down the shirt, and open the screen like a door (if you have no help, hold down the shirt with one clean hand, and open the door with the other). Your card stock stencil should stick to the screen, and you should be able to see your beautiful design on your shirt. If you are doing more than one shirt with this stencil, put it down on the next shirt immediately (do this carefully, you only get one shot to put it in the right spot) and do steps 5-8 again. If you are really fast with this process, you can do up to 6 shirts without compromising the integrity of the design or the screen. If you are not so fast, stick to 2 or 3. Step Nine: Clean up now. Carefully peel the card stock off of the screen. Set the stencil aside. Now clean the screen! Silk screen ink can dry in the fine holes of the silk, rendering it useless for future projects. Cool water and your fingers are all you need to clean the screen; just keep rubbing at any colored spots with your fingers under running water until they're all gone. Your brand new screen will be stained with color, but as long as all of the holes are still open, you can use the screen indefinitely. If your card stock stencil design is simple and not too soggy, you can use it again after it dries completely. Step Ten: Finish the t-shirt. Let the shirt dry flat overnight. Once it is dry, you can remove the cardboard and newspaper from inside the shirt, and heat-set the design. To heat-set the design, place a piece of aluminum foil on top of the design, and iron your shirt on high (without steam) for a couple of minutes on all parts of the design. Your design is now permanent, and your shirt can be machine washed and dried with the rest of your laundry. Non-porous work surfaces (such as your kitchen table) can be cleaned easily with some water and a little bit of scrubbing. If you get ink on your clothes while you're working, wash them immediately while the ink is still wet.All Culture and Conflict posts can be found under the topic heading: Diversion Audit.
Let me start by giving credit where credit is due. This glorious creation was the handiwork of teacher, mentor, appreciator of literature, writer, blogger, aunt, newlywed, photographer, nature lover, hiker, explorer, connoisseur of tall trees, purveyor of silliness, lover of all things fall, Disneyphile, master of disguise, baker, and cake enthusiast: Roxanne. The recipe for this deliciousness comes from Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook, and is featured below.  I have 4 friends with birthdays piled up in a short, 3-week span. In the past, they have all hosted separate birthday parties, and the rest of us have felt like February was a whirlwind of cake and places-to-be.
This year, they decided to forgo that nonsense, and since their ideal guest lists were nearly identical, a 4-way birthday party was the plan. It worked brilliantly.
One of the great things about one's own birthday party, is that the choice of dessert falls exclusively upon the celebratee. What to do with 4 birthdayers? Clearly, the answer was 4 different desserts.
The festivities included a chocolate cake with "cloud burst" frosting, a strawberry cheesecake, macaroons of various flavors (and a trifle made from failed bits of macaroons, or "maca-wrongs"), and this glorious Mint-Chocolate cake.
This was the dessert that came to fruition in my presence before the party, so here it is. And yes, it tasted as good as it looks.
Devil's Food Cake with Mint-Chocolate Ganache
Makes one 9-inch layer cake Half of the ganache is used for the glaze, which should be cool to the touch but pourable. If necessary, warm it over a pan of simmering water.
3 sticks (1.5 cups) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pans
3/4 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder, sifted, plus more for pans
3/4 cup hot water
3/4 cup sour cream
3 cups cake flour (not self-rising), sifted
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/4 cups sugar
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Mint-Chocolate Ganache (recipe below)
Mint Leaves
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9x2 inch round cake pans; line bottoms with parchment paper. Butter parchment; dust with cocoa powder, tapping out excess. In a medium bowl, whisk cocoa with hot water until smooth. Whisk in sour cream; let cool. Into a medium bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, and salt; set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until light an fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating to combine after each; scrape down sides of bowls as needed. Beat in vanilla. With mixer on low speed, add four mixture in two parts, alternating with the cocoa powder mixture and beginning and ending with the flour; beat until combined.
Divide batter between prepared pans; smooth with an offset spatula. Bake until a cake tester inserted in centers comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack to cool 15 minutes. Invert cakes onto rack; peel off parchment. Reinvert cakes; let cool completely, top sides up. Transfer half of Mint-Chocolate Ganache (3 1/2 cups) to clean bowl of an electric mixer; set aside remaining. Let cool completely, stirring frequently, about 40 minutes. Attach bowl to mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until ganache holds soft peaks, 5 to 7 minutes.
Using a serrated knife, trim tops of cake layers to make level. Transfer one of the layers to a cake turntable or platter, and spread top with 1 1/2 cups whipped ganache. Top with remaining layer, cut side down, and spread remaining whipped ganache in a thin layer over entire cake, covering completely. Refrigerate until set, about 30 minutes.
Transfer cake to a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the reserved ganache over the top, letting it run down the sides. If necessary, use a large offset spatula to spread from the center toward the edges, so that the cake is evenly and completely covered. Refrigerate until the ganache has just begun to set, about 30 minutes. Transfer cake to a serving plate, and garnish with Mint Leaves. Serve immediately or refrigerate, covered with a cake dome, for up to 2 days.
Mint-Chocolate Ganache
Makes about 7 cups Ganache can be kept, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Before using, warm ganache by setting it over a saucepan of simmering water, then let cool, stirring frequently.
4 cups heavy cream
2 pounds best-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 teaspoons pure peppermint extract
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream to a full boil; turn off the heat. Add the chocolate, and swirl pan to completely cover with cream. Slowly whisk mixture until smooth. Add the corn syrup, salt, and peppermint extract, and stir until combined. Transfer to a clean bowl.
This month's Tutorial Contest had several winners. The theme was fabric, and I just couldn't choose. One of the winning entries was from Jessie of Designs By Jessie. Jessie makes a variety of brilliant creations, including fabric covers for your scratchy, uncomfortable camera strap. As one of the top entrants, Jessie has won free advertising for one month on this blog, and her original tutorial is published below. Jessie's excellent photography skills make this tutorial easy to follow. I will certainly be making a few of these for various babies I know that are soon to be born. Check out Jessie's shop and blog! Jessie's Original Tutorial:
Binding my quilt was something I was really afraid to do. You have just picked up your quilt from the quilter's, they quilted this beautiful intricate design. You sweated, and bled over your quilt top. Now you have to finish it. And you might hesitate a bit, at this final stage you really don't want to muck it up! You can also pay your local quilt shop between $50 - $75 to put the binding on for you. But why bother? That is money that can go for another quilt top! So, I have come up with a little tutorial to get you through this.
Things you need:
1. Your rotary cutter
2. Your binding fabric (this could be special fabric you bought, or just scrap); I like to use the scrap fabric from my backing.
3. A walking foot
4. Quilting pins
Instructions:
Cut your fabric into 2 1/2 inch strips. You can cut these on the bias, but I tend to only cut my binding on the bias if I'm binding a scalloped edge. Cut enough strips that It will make it 1 1/4 way around your quilt. Sew the ends together so you get one continuous 2 1/2 inch strip. This strip should go around your quilt 1 1/4 times. Iron your strips in half long ways. On one end, fold over the edge so it gives it a finished look. That end I will refer to as your tail end. Take your binding strip. With the tail section in your hand, place it on the top of your quilt raw edge of binding facing out. Leave about 4 inches of your tail free and then pin the rest down to the quilt's corner.
Sew a 1/4 inch seam to the corner of the quilt, stopping a 1/4 inch from the corner. Back stitch to secure it. Fold your loose binding to the right, creating an L. Fold the binding back over and align raw edge of binding with quilt top again and pin to secure. Start in the corner, and sew 1/4 inch seam to next corner and repeat for all your corners. Stop sewing once you get 6" from where you started.
Once you get all around, you're going to come back to your tail section. Remember that you kept this loose? Measure your binding until it overlaps your tail section.
Encase the binding strip's raw edge inside your tail section and finish sewing to your starting point. Turn the binding over the edge to the back. Making sure to hide the stitching lines, hand stitch around. Stitch all the way around. Yes, it takes some time, and it's a bit awkward in the beginning. You will get your rhythm soon enough. Just put a fabulous movie in, or some great music and you will be finished in no time! Binding with perfect mitered corners! Once again, check out Jessie's Blog for the original post and other great content, and be sure to visit her shop!
This month's Tutorial Contest had several winners. The theme was fabric, and I just couldn't choose. One of the winning entries was from Katy and Zucchini. Katy and Zucchini has an excellent collection of screen printed items with a nerdy theme. As one of the top entrants, Katy and Zucchini has won free advertising for one month on this blog, and the original tutorial is published below. I have used the exact method described by Katy and Zucchini (right down to stapling the fabric to an old frame rather than buying an official screen) and her instructions are quite complete. Check out Katy and Zucchini's shop and blog! Katy and Zucchini's Original Tutorial:Do It Yourself Screen Printing!  I have developed a cheap and dirty method of screen-printing... and I have had SOO much fun with it, I wanted to share it with anyone who is interested! I have been screen-printing for my ETSY shop Katy and Zucchini. Check it out to see some ideas of what you can do!
I ordered most of my supplies from Dickblick.com. I have provided links to the items I used, but there are thousands of options out there! What you need:PliersPicture frame (wood)Diazo photo emulsion (you can use another brand, but this tutorial uses Diazo)Diazo sensitizer (comes in a kit with the emulsion and some emulsion remover, all for about $20)Gauzy drapery (you can always find this at Value Village)Staple gunStaplesCardboardThumbtacksGlass slightly smaller then the picture frame openingLamp/light bulb fixture
Light bulb (the more watts, the better!)Screen printing ink (I use Speedball textile ink)Timer/clockSomething to print on! Some ideas: t shirts, baby clothes, umbrellas, mirrors, cards, tights, underwear, luggage, pillowcases...What would be NICE to have, but not absolutely necessary: Reflector light fixture (you can find these at a hardware store OR a pet shop...used for reptile cages)BBA BULB - 250WSqueegee
Glass cutter (to use to cut the glass from your frame so it can be used to hold down your image. If you don't cut the glass, it will be too large to set inside the opening and against the screen fabric.)Screen printing fabric (I use 12XX multifillament fabric, works great!)Transparency film (you can buy these by the sheet from kinkos)Copier or printer capable of printing on transparency filmStep 1: Stretching the screen.For this part, you will need: Picture fame (soft wood), gauzy fabric/screen printing fabric, staple gun and staples, pliers.• Start by removing all the hardware from the picture frame using the pliers. Remove tacks, hangers, glass, cardboard, etc. • Once you are down to just the wood frame, you are ready to measure out your fabric. • Cut a rectangle of fabric that is about 2-3 inches longer then your frame in each dimension. Make sure you leave plenty of fabric, as you will need to be able to grab it and pull it tight.
• Lay your frame on top of the fabric so the flattest side is facing up (it is much easier to staple on a flat surface). • Wrap the fabric around one edge, place a staple in the center of the side. • Pull the fabric tight DIRECTLY opposite from the first staple (really tight), and place a staple.
• Move to the adjacent side and repeat.
• Continue adding staples in this manner all around the frame. Pull nice and tight! • Once the fabric seems secure and tight, trim the excess fabric. • Use a hammer to sink any staples that are sticking up. Step 2: Spreading the emulsion
For this part you will need: Diazo Photo Emulsion, Diazo photo emulsion sensitizer, stretched frame (see step 1), squeegee/cardboard with a straight edge, dark space to let your screen dry, newspaper to keep your surface clean.
• First, follow the instructions for mixing your photo emulsion. For Diazo photo emulsion, you will fill the sensitizer (small bottle) ½ up with cold water. Mix the water and sensitizer, then pour into the larger bottle of emulsion. Mix well. • Lay out newspaper or cardboard. This can get messy!
• Keep the room dimly lit, but make sure you can see...
• Place your frame on the newspaper and pour a bead of Photo Emulsion along one edge of your screen (make sure you choose an edge that is longer than your squeegee). • Use the squeegee to spread the emulsion evenly across the surface. • Flip the screen over and continue to spread the emulsion. Keep spreading on each side until the emulsion looks evenly coated. If there are spots that need more emulsion, it’s ok to add more. • Once the emulsion is evenly spread, set the frame down with the staples resting on the table.
• Place a thumbtack in the four corners of the frame. This will allow you to let the screen dry without sticking to the surface. (This allows the ‘bottom’ of your screen to dry smooth and even). • Put the screen in a dark place (I use a cupboard, then hang a blanket over the cupboard and turn out the lights…but you could use a cardboard box, Rubbermaid container, etc. You want to keep it as dark as possible). • Let the screen dry. This can take 24-48 hours depending on the temp/humidity. If you want to speed this up, you can use a fan. Keep the screen cool, as heat will set the emulsion! Room temperature is fine. • Place any extra emulsion in the fridge, it will last about 4 months if you keep it cool. • Clean up your mess! Warm water should do the trick.
Step 3: Selecting your image/design
For this tutorial I will explain how to print any image from your computer to burn onto your screen, however you can draw your own design on transparent plastic/glass for a simpler process. You could also cut a design out of opaque paper and use that!
For this step you will need: Transparency film, printer, image on your computer
• Select your image . The image you select must be black and white only (not gray scale). Don’t worry, you won’t have to print with only black ink, but the purpose of the transparency and printed image is to block light from reaching your screen. • Print your image on paper to make sure it is the size you want it (it should be small enough to fit inside the frame with about an inch of space on each side).
• Load the transparency paper into your printer and print two copies of your image (if it will fit, print two on one page, you can cut it in the next step). • Once you have two copies, you will overlap the two to make your image opaque (you don’t want any light to pass through). Use clear tape to keep them overlapped.
• Cut the transparency film so it will fit into your frame.Step 4: Exposing your screenFor this part, you will need: Light fixture and light bulb (using a reflector fixture and a BBA BULB - 250W will significantly cut down the time needed to expose your screen!), your image (see step 3), timer/clock, glass piece large enough to cover your image (but small enough to fit inside the opening in the frame).• Place black cardboard on your work surface. You don’t want light reflecting off the surface and exposing your screen.• Keep the room dimly lit.• Hang your light approximately 12 inches from the work surface.• Lay out your image and the glass piece, get them ready to place on your screen.• Get out your screen (make sure the emulsion is dry by touching the surface in one of the corners). Remove the thumb tacks.• Place your screen on the black paper, directly under the light. The frame should be placed with staples facing up, the fabric in direct contact with the black paper.• Quickly place your image on the screen, center it and be sure it is straight. (Although the room is dark, make sure you can see well enough to check that your image isn’t reversed…) Place a square of glass on your image to hold in in direct contact with the fabric. If you don't have a piece of glass small enough to fit inside the frame, you can tape your image down. • Use this chart (http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Silk_Screen_Printing_Instructions.html) to determine your exposure time.SPEEDBALL SCREEN PRINTING SYSTEM Recommended Exposure Chart (Revised 1/77) 150 Watt Bulb, Clear Incandescent Screen Size . 150W Bulb Height . . . . . Exposure Time 8"x10" . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes 10"x14" . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes 12"x18" . . . . . 15 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 14 minutes 16"x20 . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes 18"x20" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes BBA No. 1 Photoflood (250 Watt) Screen Size . . Lamp Height . . Exposure Time 8" x 10". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes 10"x14". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes 12 "x 18" . . . . .15 inches . . . . . 16 minutes 16"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes 18"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes PLEASE NOTE: This chart has been prepared using an aluminum foil pie-plate reflector. More sophisticated light sources, reflectors and equipment can, of course, be used. However, as any variable is changed, you will have to adjust the exposure times and distances. This will require experimentation. • Turn on the light for the amount of time indicated on the chart. I use a reflector fixture 12 inches from the surface, with an XX light bulb, and I expose an 8X10 inch frame for 4 minutes. I messed around a bit with exposure times, and found it work the best for me. You might have to experiment a little. Too much exposure can set ALL the emulsion, and no ink will be able to pass through. Too little exposure might not set the emulsion well, and all of it will wash off. • After exposing the screen, immediately take the screen to a sink/tub/hose. The more spraying pressure, the better! Try to keep the screen from being exposed to too much light during this process. I turn out the lights in the bathroom and use the hall lights to help me see.
• Rinse the screen with room temperature water. DO NOT USE HOT WATER! Remember that heat will also set your emulsion! You can use your finger to lightly scrub where you want the emulsion to wash out.
• It might take several minutes to see your image start to appear, but don’t lose hope. The more pressure you can spray on the screen, the faster the unset emulsion will rinse out. I have a 'water pick' in my shower, and it sprays a super strong stream. Works great! • Once it seem like your image is ‘clean’ (meaning the emulsion has rinsed out), hold your screen up to the light to be sure you didn’t miss any spots.
• Let your screen dry completely.
Step 5: Making your print(s)
For this part you will need: ink (use fabric/textile ink if you are printing on clothing), squeegee or a piece of cardboard with a flat edge, something to print on, your screen (see step 4), cardboard.
• Test your screen on a piece of paper first (I will describe how to print on a t-shirt, but you can print on just about anything!)
• Lay your shirt out flat.. Place a piece of cardboard inside the shirt directly under where you will print your image. • Place your screen on your t-shirt. Align the image to where you want your print. I use the transparency image to get a good idea of what it will look like... • Use a piece of cardboard to scoop out some ink and spread a bead along one edge of the screen. • Use one hand to hold the screen steady. It might help to have an assistant hold the screen on your t-shirt for your first few times.
• Use the other hand to draw the squeegee over the bead of ink and all the way to the other end of the screen. You will use quite a bit of pressure while squeegeeing…this takes some practice. Try to use even pressure the whole time. • Carefully lift the screen from your t-shirt. Let the ink dry (follow any directions given to 'heat set' the ink to your fabric. Speedball requires you to iron the image to heat set it, so it is machine washable). • You have your print! Do it again on another shirt, or card, or scarf, or your wall…you just might get carried away. I know I did! • Be sure to rinse your screen with warm water after you are finished. Let your screen dry flat. It can be reused MANY times! Or…you can use diazo photo emulsion remover to remove all the emulsion, and start over again at step 2!
Here are some ideas for some things you can print on! The sky is the limit! Additional tips from Daogreer Earth Works: You can create simpler designs by printing them on card stock and cutting them out with an X-acto knife. Any solid object is the simplest, but with practice you can create stencils as complex as the MLK design below. Lay out your shirt with the cardboard inside. Place your stencil on top of the shirt, and then place a blank screen on top of that. Make sure any exposed edges are covered with newspaper. Now follow the rest of the directions in step 5. Card stock stencils can be used 3 or 4 times before they disintegrate. Be sure to peel all remnants of the card stock off the screen and thoroughly rinse the screen immediately after use so it can be used again. Below are some designs by Daogreer Earth Works, screen printed using stencils cut out of card stock. Some were then scanned and altered for printing purposes.
• Taxus Brevifolia - Pacific Yew Tree, reverse shows a molecule of taxol, the cancer-fighting agent found in the Pacific Yew Tree, available as a canvas tote. • Blue State of Mind - Barack Obama, screenprint came out as slightly "overexposed," available as greeting card, postcard, art print, and ACEO.
• Golden Boy - C3PO, available as greeting card, postcard, art print, and ACEO.
• I've Wondered - Wonder Woman, available as postcard in six colors and ACEO. • All the Lonely Purple - The Beatles, available as greeting card, postcard, art print, ACEO, and muslin screenprint. • MLK - Martin Luther King Jr. with excerpt from U2's song Pride (in the Name of Love), available as t-shirt (one left!) and postcard.
This month's Tutorial Contest had several winners. The theme was fabric, and I just couldn't choose. One of the winning entries was from Jessie of Designs By Jessie. Jessie makes a variety of brilliant creations, including fabric covers for your scratchy, uncomfortable camera strap. (Jessie's camera straps are now limited edition - when they're gone, they're gone!) As one of the top entrants, Jessie has won free advertising for one month on this blog, and her original tutorial is published below. Jessie's excellent photography skills make this tutorial easy to follow. I will certainly be making a few of these for various babies I know that are soon to be born. Check out Jessie's shop and blog! Jessie's Original Tutorial:As promised I put together a little tutorial for the burp cloths I made last week. They were dead simple, and seriously... I think It took me longer to buy the flannel. If I was smarter and better prepared I would have bought it online. There is a much larger selection online then in any of the stores I went to. The mom to be, her baby colors were pink and green, so I really wanted to stick to those colors. What you need:
1/2 yard of each color (which ever colors you choose) I bought 1/2 yard of the solids, and 1 1/2 yards of the Prints, and 3 yards of the white and hot pink. Remember I also made a blanket so you only need about a half a yard. Free online pattern that you can find Here. Cutting Mat Rotary Cutter Pins Fabric Scissors Fabric Pen Ruler Sewing stick pins.
Directions: Print out your pattern, tape it together, and measure it. This one is a little bit more than 8 inches wide. I also noticed that I could fit two of these patterns on the fabric if I measured selvage edge to selvage edge Carefully measure out your 9 inches. Make your cut. Place your pattern on the flannel with the wrong sides facing out. If you left your fabric in half like I did, you will have the right sides already facing each other in the middle. With your fabric marker, trace your pattern. With Scissors, cut out the shape. As you are working with your fabric doubled up, take care to cut them carefully keeping the fabric together. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it also shouldn't be way off. See. .. you have cut 2 at the same time! Here is a better look at what it looks like after tracing.
At that point I then traced all my fabric to get it out of the way. See? All cut out. Now comes the fun.. If you are using a mix of fabrics, start matching them up. Right Sides together. Pin around your edges. Then start to sew. I used a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Sew 90% around making sure to leave an opening about 2 inches.*TIP* After several of these were finished, I found it was much easier to leave the opening in the center where it curves in. Instead of at the bottom. Find your opening and push it right side out. Shape it out. Iron it flat to set your seams. Careful to push the fabric all the way out to maintain the shape. Carefully finger tuck the opening following the earlier seam allowance then Iron down to set. Top stitch around the whole thing. I used a 1/4 inch seam allowance, to make sure I was sewing over the selvage on the inside. It gives it stability on the edges to help maintain its shape after multiple washings. All Finished!!! This was really one of those projects that the crowd goes wild for at the Shower. It's unique, and handmade. You can also dress these up a bit more and add some Ric rack around the edging..If you have an embroidery machine you can monogram them. You can make them square, or design your own shape. Its all up to you! Additional tips from Daogreer Earth Works:
Before you turn your shape right side out, clip along your seam allowance on the curves like the diagram above. This will allow your seam allowance to lay flat inside your burp cloth.
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